Close to the university and tourist attractions, Sylvesters is a popular eatery for work lunches, pre-theatre gatherings, evenings out with friends and festival-goers. This family-run establishment is refined yet laidback and unpretentious, with service that is attentive and professional. The menu tips its hat to Scottish tradition, while keeping things up to date with modern takes on classics. I chose the wild mushroom tart to start, which was accompanied by duck egg, red pepper coulis and truffle oil. My pan-fried Scottish salmon fillet was perfectly cooked, and was served with confit fennel, pickled red radish, spring onions, polenta crostini and lemongrass velouté – delicious. Everything we tried was made with skill and passion by chef Kieran Sylvester. The menu of modern Scottish fare, coupled with a down-to-earth ambience, makes Sylvesters a favourite haunt for many.