If the walls of La Gendarmerie could speak, they'd probably tell you a fascinating centuries-old tale or two of the North Devon underworld. But in the two years that husband and wife Paul and Sarah Becouarn have transformed this place into one of the area's top dining destinations, the food has certainly been doing all the speaking for itself.
The menu teams the very best traditions of French, English and Italian cuisine - try buffalo mozzarella, vine tomato and aged balsamic for starters - with an innovative modernity that does as much to intrigue as it does to satisfy.
Pan-seared fillet of beef melts in a garlic and anchovy butter aside a jenga of neatly and solidly stacked pont neuf chips.
In fact, the apple galette with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce is probably worth at least a couple of nights in the cells. Bon appetit.