Set in the narrow streets of Godalming, this huge converted church retains almost all of its recognisable features, and the authentic charm of these surroundings has been poured into the new winter menu. Try, for example, the parsnip and apple soup, which with one spoonful conjured images of nights by the fire. The gently cooked scallops proved tempting even to me, a self-confessed fish-hater, who has perhaps been converted. The chef has clearly had his thinking cap on and, by using the freshest of local ingredients, he is getting to the roots of good English cooking, with an originality that is captivating and interesting - cider foam bubble and squeak anyone' But the all-important question, the question that could dash the highest of expectations - how was the steak? Simply outstanding, having been cooked with serious know-how and precision. For pudding try the zesty orange cheesecake, which is a firm favourite among the capable and friendly staff.
The surroundings leave as much of an impression as the food: high beamed ceilings, warm red and oak hues and plenty of nooks and crannies for intimate dining, as well as open space for larger parties. The artwork too has wonderful charm; everything painted by local artist Tim Bulmer, who cites the village as his inspiration, with caricatures of the local rugby teams and golfers to name a few. With 50 per cent off vouchers for main courses from Mondays to Thursdays, it's time to sample the best that this village has to offer. Simply divine.