Boyds Grill & Wine Bar
We visited Boyds Grill & Wine Bar during its soft opening phase before its launch mid-February 2016. We think it promises to be a real gem. Sitting on a quiet road just off Trafalgar Square and housed within a building that dates back to 1887, this opulent destination seamlessly blends tradition with modernity in everything from the furnishings to the menu.
We began at the well-stocked 360-degree bar and sipped on gin and tonic while perusing the menu. In keeping with the decor, the menu comprises a selection of British options, created using ingredients sourced from within 100 miles of the establishment, wherever possible. The drinks menu, meanwhile, showcases a selection of wines from lesser-known wine-producing regions, adding to the restaurant’s character.
Our shared starters, or small plates, included Sipsmith gin-cured salmon, Daikon and buttermilk sorbet – an explosion of fresh fish and verdant flavours. A deeply savoury plate of braised lamb with tandoori spice, carrot and citrus purée had melt-in-the-mouth lamb perfectly balanced with the sharp purée. Another plate of beef and bone marrow faggot with sweet buttery mash and Bordelaise sauce was heavenly. Next, I tucked into Dover sole paired with seasonal greens and boiled new potatoes. It was simply done, allowing the delicate flavour of the fish to shine through. My companion’s Welsh lamb chop was served on the bone and with lemon, thyme and Port jus. The portions are generous, so we decided to share a salted caramel chocolate fondant for dessert, which arrived with sweet raspberry ripple ice cream. The fondant oozed dark, stick chocolate and was a truly great end to a stunning meal.
A special mention should go to the interesting and intelligently compiled wine list. Fabien, the general manager, is passionate about wine and it’s infectious. Without his help we might have passed up the opportunity to try some great Croatian, German and Lebanese wines.
Whether you’re visiting for a special occasion or to sample the bargain pretheatre menu, Boyds offers great food in a very special setting.