The Bountiful Cow
51 Eagle Street, Holborn, London, WC1R 4AP
Ten years ago Roxy Beaujolais, author of the classic cookbook Home From the Inn Contented and co-presenter of the BBC's Full On Food, created this, the first and best of London's recent wave of steakhouses - conceived and run as a public house devoted to beef. Walls are covered with pictures and posters providing 'a warm decor featuring witty takes on the cow,' to quote a recent diner. Steaks are all aged many weeks for tenderness and flavour, and sizzled with exact perfection by the grill chefs. At no extra charge they can be had à la Capricorn (that is, with melted goat's cheese), with Béarnaise sauce, or chimichurri. Fine vegetarian dishes are on the menu too, as well as cask-conditioned ales and salutary affordable wines. The beef is selected around dawn by manager Cveta Dukovska, 'Queen of Smithfield Market,' as she has been known since the Smithfield butchers began returning her visits. (They've had their Christmas parties at The Bountiful Cow for the last three years.) An online reviewer: 'The offer here is simple: steaks as good as the palaces of the Square Mile or the West End at half the price. It's delivered, but the bonus is a pub restaurant with real character too.' And restaurant critic Marina O'Laughlin noted this about the huge Bountyburgers: 'if you're in the mood for excess, rather wonderful.' Need more be said?