The chandeliers that adorn the trees outside Glencot House are the first clue that this is no ordinary country house hotel, but nothing can prepare you for the extent of its wonderful eccentricity. Situated within idyllic gardens at the foot of the Mendip Hills, Miller’s at Glencot House truly makes an impression from the moment you ring the doorbell and take in the flamboyant entrance hall. Entering the drawing room is like stumbling upon an Aladdin’s cave of fascinating antiques. Family photos sit comfortably next to exotic curiosities and every inch of the room reveals something more splendid than the last.

The dining room is equally stunning, punctuated by elegantly dressed candlelit tables. Still in awe of the surroundings, we turned our attention to the menu, which incorporates the flavours of the season using fresh local produce. A wonderfully seasonal autumn salad of beetroot with walnuts, pickled pears and Roquefort provided an appropriately dramatic fusion of flavours to start, then we chose roasted rump of lamb served with creamed cabbage, potato cake and redcurrant sauce, and a sesame-crusted pheasant breast accompanied by pumpkin purée and cabbage ravioli. The successful marriage of flavours was sublime, and a mini creme brulée dessert with chocolate brownie and a mango and lime sorbet formed the perfect trio of sweet treats to finish. The exceptional food is just one part of the experience that is Miller’s at Glencot House. Restaurant and hotel guests are encouraged to be leisurely, whether playing board games in the drawing room, exploring the grounds or making use of the billiards room and ‘minimar’ – the hotel’s own cinema. The unique quality of Miller’s at Glencot House is that, despite the formality that a house of this splendour bestows, guests ultimately feel at ease. This reflects the outlook of the owner, Martin Miller, who feels strongly that antiques should not be viewed as precious but as part of everyday life, to be enjoyed – I urge you to go and experience the passion and magnificence of Glencot House for yourself.