Part of the Celtic Manor collection, this cosy country inn is set on the banks of the River Usk, just a short drive from The Celtic Manor Resort. We were warmly welcomed by manager Stephen, and spotted some guests sipping wine next to a real log fire – the whole pub seemed to be inviting us to relax and enjoy ourselves.

We took a seat next to a window, enjoying the stunning moon-lit view of the Welsh countryside beyond. Homemade bread and a bottle of house red – a fruity Rioja – accompanied our decision-making. It was instantly clear that using locally sourced, fresh ingredients is important to the chef here. I ordered the sea bass for main and the waitress let me know it would be served with seasonally available scallops that day, and accompanied by delicious buttered leeks. To start we tucked into a huge portion of Swansea Bay mussels, with Taffy Apple cider, cream and smoked pancetta, and a woodland wild mushroom risotto. My companion chose the grilled rib-eye steak with sautéed garlic prawns for her main – she assured me it was superb. The Willie’s 100-percent- cacao triple chocolate brownie we shared for dessert was quite honestly the best brownie I’ve ever tasted.

On our way out, feeling full of goodness and entirely untroubled, we noticed the six bedrooms occupying a separate building – we have already made plans to return for a longer visit.