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The Usk Valley
Owens
Location: The Celtic Manor Resort, Coldra Woods, The Usk Valley, NP18 1HQ [
map]
Phone: 01633 413000
Open: Tue-Sat 7pm-10.30pm (reservations are recommended)
Everything about the dining experience at The Celtic Manor's flagship restaurant, Owens,
is exquisite. Over the past twelve months the kitchen, under the new directorship of Lee
Milne, has further refined the already incomparable menu to create an even more
fabulous fine dining experience. With three courses at £47.50 and the tasting menu
starting at £65, Owens offers a memorable evening, whether you're dining - deux or
celebrating with family and friends in style.
The stylish setting, with crisp table-cloths and sparkling cutlery, is managed by Leighton
Davy, who clearly believes that attention to detail is paramount. The friendly and
courteous staff are happy to discuss menu items and the extensive range of wines; the wine
list, incidentally, features bins from all over the world with a good selection available by
the glass as well as by the bottle or half bottle.
Whilst reading the menu we sampled roasted aubergine and chilli caviar and a very fine
Eastern Australian Riddle Shiraz (2004). Having opted for the eight-course tasting
menu,the dishes that followed were prepared with impeccable care, and presented on a
selection of beautiful cut glass plates. The choice of breads included a wonderful raisin
and hazelnut alternative, so good that it tempted my partner to a second slice.
Courses were varied and innovative: roasted diver-caught scallops with black pudding,
minted peas and caramelized cauliflower; organic salmon mi cuit with spiced lentils,
confit foie gras, fig chutney and vanilla jus; and Gloucester pork belly with celeriac
remoulade, pickled pearl onions and a honey and mustard dressing. The portions were
perfect and before we knew it we were faced with a cheese trolley to die for, with wedges
of cheese varying from traditional creamy Stilton to more unusual Welsh variants. The
optional cheese course pre-empted further delicious flavours in the form of a mango puree
with coconut foam and lemongrass juice, and finally a valrhona chocolate fondant with
carnation mousse, toffee and fleur de sel ice cream, of which nothing more could be said
than that it was a chocoholic's dream. All courses were cooked with such perfection that
to choose a favourite would be impossible. An easier question to answer would be - when
shall we come again?
The atmosphere and setting at Owens, combined with the marvellous food and service,
are unforgettable. Little wonder that Owens has won so many accolades, including four
RAC dining awards, two AA rosettes and a Taste of Wales Gold for every year of
operation. I can only imagine that many more will follow.
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