Scotland harbours many hidden treasures, but perhaps none so precious as Sanquhar’s Blackaddie. This beautifully grand yet comfortable 16th-Century country house hotel is set in its own gardens on the banks of the River Nith, and the restaurant within is home to one of Britain’s most celebrated chefs, Ian McAndrew (chef profile page 31).

Ian has enjoyed a long and successful career – as a Michelin star holder for many years, author of three cookery books and listed in Kit Chapman’s Great British Chefs. His work is recognised as ‘a mix of art, instinct and meticulous cooking practice’, which has spanned three decades and won him the top accolades available in his profession. It is no surprise then that, although Ian and his wife Jane took over the Blackaddie only two and a half years ago, the awards are already flowing. They have achieved ‘Gold Plate’ status for dining from Hotel Review Scotland, a silver award from Eat Scotland, five-star excellence status from Food Review Scotland, and double triumph at the recent Scottish Hotel Awards, where Ian hauled in a ‘Chef Médailles d’Or for Dinner Excellence’ and the ‘Dinner Quality and Value Award’. In December 2009 the Blackaddie was awarded two AA rosettes – proving that this is some of the finest food to be found for miles around. It is unusual to find fine dining and good value served up at the same restaurant, but the Blackaddie genuinely offers a mouth-watering experience without the eye-watering bill. Ian is meticulous in his delivery of the overall package and committed to providing a topquality dining experience for his customers. He told me ‘fine dining is not just about having dinner, it is about enjoying the experience as a whole. A good restaurant should offer diners visual and sensual pleasure, not just to the palate but also to the eye.’ Ian’s fervour for quality is also reflected in his fastidious choice of suppliers, and he is a passionate advocate of using fresh locally sourced produce, as seasonal as possible.

The first impression of the Blackaddie’s fine-dining experience is one of warmth and comfort. A predinner drink can be enjoyed in the bar in front of an inviting fire, or in the soft chairs of the library or sitting room. The small but excellent menu (changed daily) has been carefully composed with quality and choice in mind. As a promise of what is to come, a complimentary dish of appetisers, including a brandade of haddock and salmon fish balls, showcases the artistry and showmanship of this talented chef.

In the comfortable and intimate dining room there is seating for 20, and diners can enjoy the quiet of their surroundings and be spoiled by professional, friendly staff while savouring some of the most imaginative and inspirational food in Scotland. My starter of lamb ravioli on a wild leek risotto was sublime and my partner tucked into a cauliflower velouté. To follow, we enjoyed seared fillet of salmon with a herb crust, and cannon of lamb on braised spring onions with an asparagus salad. To finish, the Taste of Vanilla dessert was a quartet of inspirational sweets presented on the same plate – best described as ambrosia for the gods. Each exquisitely presented course was a glorious work of art – a perfect unity of intense flavour and exciting texture crafted by a passionate master of the culinary trade. And the astonishingly reasonable price tag was a welcome added bonus.