One of the best reasons to visit Lyme Regis is to enjoy the magnificent views over Lyme Bay and Cobb Harbour, and we can’t think of a better place to do this than on the terrace of By the Bay, with a chilled glass of white wine to sip and a mouth-watering menu to peruse. If it’s a cold or blustery day, we’d simply retire behind the panoramic windows and enjoy the view from inside.

The new owners, who took over at the beginning of 2009, have been careful to retain the best of what By the Bay has been offering visitors and loyal locals for years – namely its perfect location, friendly staff and light and airy interior – but have given the menu a makeover that will delight those looking for something more than your basic seaside fare. During the day, all the old favourites are there – golden fish and chips, delicious crab baguettes and scrumptious desserts and ice creams – but they have been revitalised under the guidance of new French chef Johnny Gilbert, who is determined to use only the finest fresh ingredients. You can also find some new surprises such as two-way John Dory served with Mediterranean-style vegetables and sautéed new potatoes, and, in the evening, he throws a smidge of fairy dust over the place and transforms the menu into a sophisticated à la carte experience.

Johnny has infused the menu with colourful modern twists, including dishes such as a classic French-style fish soup with Parmesan and rouillé, and Ashdale sirloin of beef with Dauphinois potato, sautéed mushrooms, onion purée and Madeira jus. The menu changes with the seasons – when we visited, delicate asparagus spears and West Country crab stacks were among the starters, and a rhubarb jelly with ginger cream stood out among the desserts – and chef assures us that he has many new delights up his sleeve to please even the most discerning palate when autumn arrives.

Whatever the season, By the Bay is a great find and it’s well worth reserving a table if you’re planning to visit at the weekend or in the evening to avoid disappointment. Modern British Modern British