Navigating exciting new pastures, Angelo Cocchia (formerly of Edinburgh’s lauded Cosmo) has set up his own mecca for lovers of fine Italian dining in North Berwick. He now does what he does best at Osteria, right on the High Street. Sourcing the finest and freshest local produce available, Angelo’s daughter Daniela cooks up a culinary storm, conveying imagination, flair and skill, while he works his magic front-ofhouse. With this duo at the helm, it comes as no surprise that Osteria was shortlisted for ‘Best Italian Restaurant of the Year’ at the Scottish Restaurant Awards 2012.

My starter of aubergine stuffed with buffalo mozzarella, tomato and pesto and drizzled with cherry tomato coulis was nothing short of sensational, and the grilled lamb cutlets that followed, served with thinly sliced potato in a white wine and rosemary jus, were undoubtedly the best I’ve tasted. Meanwhile, my companion’s wild halibut main was cooked to perfection, deliciously moist and bursting with flavour. Other highlights included a spiedini di gamberoni e scampi starter, a mixed seafood platter and a freshly baked walnut cake served with brandy ice cream.

To accompany this feast, we plumped for the Grillo 2010 from an extensive wine list – citrusy and sumptuous with a hint of hazelnut – and also tried the Montepulciano D’Abruzzo house red, which was impressively smooth. Boasting a wide choice of antipasti, starters, mains, sides and desserts, Osteria is deliciously formal yet welcoming. It is fine dining, Angelo-style, beside the seaside.