Food and Drink May 25, 2012
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The Usk Valley, Newport
The Patio
Location: The Celtic Manor Resort, Coldra Woods, The Usk Valley, Newport, NP18 1HQ [map]
Phone: 01633 413000
Open: Mon-Sat 7pm-10.30pm (bank holiday weekends, opening hours vary)
Website: www.celtic-manor.com

This luxurious destination favoured by Catherine Zeta Jones is an absolute must if you're in South Wales, but you don't have to be on the A-list to enjoy the Celtic Manor experience. And if you're not staying the night, but have a few hours to spare for some truly indulgent dining, turn off the M4 and head for The Patio restaurant situated within The Manor House hotel.

This stunning conservatory adjoining to the historic 19th-Century house offers views over the gardens. Full of families enjoying a catch-up, and couples winding down over a glass of wine, it's informal yet completely refined. Reserve a seat by the window and relax into the soft wicker chairs while enjoying the views beyond.

To begin, my companion chose grilled sardine fillets on toasted focaccia bread with a black olive tapenade and roasted garlic oil (£5.25) - its rich aroma reaching us before the plate touched the table. My butternut squash velouté with warm ciabatta (£4.50) was creamy and so moreish that I could have eaten bowlfuls. Both starters arrived promptly and we were topped up with an endless supply of tomato and olive oil ciabatta bread to mop up the remains. The braised boneless Welsh lamb shank my companion ordered for a main arrived wrapped in cabbage, with creamy mashed potatoes, roasted carrots and rosemary jus (£14.95). My roasted marget of duck was tender, served with celeriac mash and a sweet raisin purée and red wine sauce drizzled over roast parsnips (£15.95).

For dessert, I chose the Italian chaud froid - a delightful trio comprising poached pear, a scoop of cardamon ice cream and a glass of steaming mulled wine (£6.95), while my companion sampled an ample serving of lemon, passion fruit and mango, blackcurrant and raspberry sorbets (£4.90). We dined for more than two and a half hours thanks to unrushed service that gave us time to fully appreciate each course - certainly the sign of a great meal out.


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