Down a quaint country lane near Usk, the warm light spilling from the windows of the Raglan Arms is as comforting as the glowing reviews the restaurant has received from Wales' food enthusiasts. Proprietors Charlott Fagergard and Giles Cunliffe have succeeded in creating a homely yet elegant establishment which enjoys loyal custom from both the locality and further afield.

We stepped through the door on a cold winter's evening, and were welcomed by a lively log fire and an equally cheerful greeting from the staff. Seated at a gloriously rustic wooden table adorned with a country-cottage flower pot and crisp white napkins, we perused the menu (which changes every three days) with eager anticipation. A morsel of mushroom mousse on crostini heightened our hunger for what was to come. To start, the fillet of Cornish red mullet with black olive and anchovy risotto was sublime. Topped with a delicious and innovative vanilla foam, it was clearly a dish put together by a highly experienced and enthusiastic chef. My main of roast fillet of cod with mussel Provençal sauce, linguine, and pesto croutons proved a stunning dish; across the table, my companion relished in a fabulous-smelling butternut, ricotta and spinach strudel with confit peppers, praising its great flavour combinations and varied textures. The guests around us all appeared to be enjoying equally fantastic meals, so we happily sat and soaked up the atmosphere while making room for dessert - and we weRenét rushed once. An autumn fruit parfait with chocolate tuille proved perfectly refreshing, yet just as fabulously indulgent as the preceding dishes.

As well as producing exquisite food, the Raglan Arms also has a truly ethical ethos. They use meat from up the road, and hold wine tastings and events in aid of charity - a quirky menu of pink dishes recently raised over £1500 for breast cancer research. So whether you would like to champion a charity, chill out with the Sunday papers and a coffee, or indulge in a three-course meal, the Raglan Arms is absolutely worth a visit.