Tucked away in a quiet corner of Bassaleg, Junction 28 imparts a feeling of gentle bonhomie. The subtle Oriental theme of the decor transfers easily from the lounge to the dining area, while the friendly approach and culinary knowledge of the experienced staff promise a pleasant evening for all.

The menus are wonderfully comprehensive and local produce is used wherever possible. The Flying All Night menu provides three courses and a choice of vegetables for either £16.95 (from 5.30pm to 7pm) or £19.95 (from 7pm to 9.30pm). The lunchtime choice is revised daily and vegetarians, vegans and those with special dietary requirements are catered for on every menu. The à la carte menu is extensive whilst maintaining creative ingenuity and displays a dazzling selection of starters and main dishes, including traditional and international meals.

On our recent visit I chose the warm salad of king scallops and black pudding with white truffle to start, while my partner selected the ravioli of smoked duck and ginger with linguine of vegetables and coriander oil. Both dishes were a delight to the eye and the palate. We both initially had our eye on the roasted monkfish tail with lobster, Jerusalem artichoke purée, spinach and saffron sauce and the platter of three miniature duck dishes for our main courses, but we chose the risotto of rabbit with spring onion cream, thyme and Parmesan biscuit and the guinea fowl braised in Port wine with shallots, mushrooms and pancetta and served with celeriac and truffle Dauphinoise. The combinations of flavours were ingenious and the meat mouth-wateringly tender. As with every course, the desserts available emphasise the training and experience of the chefs – the menu features treats such as cappuccino chocolate mousse, classic creme brulée and white chocolate parfait.

The wine list is the most inclusive I have seen. The house red is the Vinas Riojanas cabernet sauvignon from Argentina, which is powerful and fruity, and the dry house white is specially selected from South Africa. The quality of the house wines is testament to the list as a whole, right up to the Louis Roederer Cristal at the top of the list. All in all, it’s worth making a journey to the Junction.