Stone-flagged floors, hessian carpets, low timber beams, a wall of sawn log ends and everything else (from bar-top to glassware) polished and cleaned to a brilliant, welcoming shine – the first impression of The Black Horse leads to the discovery of cosy corners, a laid-back atmosphere and discreetly placed dining tables. This is a pub and restaurant that’s accustomed to providing great hospitality, and it delivers a relaxed ambience, as well as quality food and service, with accomplished ease.

A choice of around a dozen starters set my tastebuds tingling, and my order of fresh lamb kidneys pan-fried with mushrooms in a wholegrain mustard cream sauce, served on toasted ciabatta, was an utterly delicious way to begin. My colleague opted for deep-fried breaded Somerset Brie with an orange and redcurrant dressing, and relished the cheese’s creamy gooeyness against its tangy accompaniment.

Next up, from the ‘pub classics’ section of the menu, was beer-battered haddock with home-cut chunky chips, mushy peas, tartare sauce, spicy ketchup and Aspall’s malt vinegar – flaky and moist, obviously freshly cooked and delectable. A blackboard details The Black Horse’s dishes of the day, while a selection of seasonal meals provides yet further choice. There’s also an impressive wine list of over 30 world varieties, and I’ll certainly be returning to make my way through it.