Food and Drink May 24, 2012
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Nr. Glasgow
Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond
Location: Cameron House Hotel, Loch Lomond, Nr. Glasgow, G83 8QZ [map]
Phone: 0844 683 0723
Open: Weds-Fri 6.30pm-10pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm- 10pm; Sun noon-2.30pm, 7pm-10pm
E-mail: info@mwlochlomond.co.uk
Website: www.martin-wishart.co.uk

As a rule, the bestowal of a Michelin star suggests the establishment in question exhibits an unswervingly superior standard and adheres to a certain kind of pedigree throughout. Awarded to Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond in October 2011, this much sought-after honour is the latest in a line of accolades and is nothing less than the operation merits.

Any restaurant set amongst the iconic, commanding scenery of the Highlands, in particular world-renowned Loch Lomond, is surely duty-bound to match its grandeur – and happily, Martin Wishart has succeeded in achieving this aim. The restaurant is situated within the eye-catching Cameron House; and from the opening amuse-bouche to the closing petits fours, guests enjoy a quality rivalled by few. Our meal afforded a striking introduction comprising parsley soup with poached quail’s egg as well as a grilled Orkney scallop delicately placed on an extraordinarily smooth pumpkin velouté. Toasted seeds provided appropriate texture and supplemented a stunning inseason combination.

Highlights of the tasting menu included lightly poached langoustine ravioli accompanied by braised endive spiked with orange – an innovative use of the Belgian leaf vegetable which complemented the sweetness of the fish. Perfectly pink Ayrshire grouse was next, along with an intriguing smoked celery jus. The celery is smoked in-house using local beach chips to produce a distinctive flavour – this original technique was used to great effect and really elevated the dish. To finish, a decadent Valrhona chocolate and hazelnut mousse was offset beautifully by a refreshing mango sorbet.

Leading the front-of-house staff with an effortless yet highly personable charm was restaurant manager Miguel Rivero, whose composure and knowledge bore testament to a remarkable résumé which has taken in top restaurants across the UK. Spearheading the kitchen after working under the wing of Martin Wishart for several years, Stewart Boyles brimmed with enthusiasm while chatting to diners after service. Like his mentor, Stewart has developed a passion for contemporary cooking which incorporates elements of classic French cuisine and uses only the finest local produce.

Considering the exemplary cuisine and ambition abounding at this first-rate establishment, those visiting for the first time should prepare for an out-and-out love affair rather than a Highland fling.


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