After 20 years, Terre à Terre remains utterly unique. Firmly established as a Brighton institution, it is also renowned much further afield and has won many prestigious national awards. These achievements are down to internationally inspired dishes that continue to challenge preconceived ideas about vegetarian food thanks to their creatively and carefully composed flavours, shapes and textures. The playful nature of the dishes is reflected in their names; starters include Bangkok Broken Balls, where coconut rice balls, toasted peanuts, Thai basil, and pineapple vinegar and lemon oil bring together the fl avours of South East Asia in a riot of taste. The mains are equally impressive: Better Batter and Lemony Yemeni Relish is a fun take on traditional fish and chips, while Rosti Revisited adds onion and garlic to the rustic Swiss classic and tops it with sautéed buttered spinach, creamy parsley sauce and a soft poached egg. There are vegan alternatives to many of the dishes, and the friendly, knowledgeable staff are happy to offer explanations and recommendations. Terre à Terre's extensive organic wine and drinks list, all vegetarian and some vegan, is expertly researched and matched to its eclectic menu. A word to the wise: leave room for dessert. We succumbed to a chocolate brownie bomb filled with salted caramel, and to superlative churros served with vodka cherries and chocolate and salt caramel dips. One of the best espressos I've ever tasted, accompanied by a selection of handmade truffles, formed the perfect ending to an exceptional evening.