Upon entering The Plumed Horse, a welcoming wave of serenity washes over you; the decor is neutral and simple, and the lighting is low and relaxing. This is the kind of place you come for a dining experience, not just a meal. The restaurant manager, Ian Bruce, and his delightful team are always ready to interact with diners, aiding you in your decision-making, in terms of choosing from the menu and selecting the best wine to complement.

The first course to arrive was a lovely plate of canapés, arranged so neatly it seemed a shame to eat them. Next was an amuse bouche – a wonderfully light and fluffy cauliflower cream – that more than did its job, exciting the palate and giving us a taster of the exceptional skill of the chef, Tony Borthwick. I ordered the twice-baked Parmesan and truffle soufflé with tomato and cucumber salad for my starter, which was a triumph. The ravioli of smoked salmon, capers, sweetcorn purée and passion fruit oil was also an exquisite fusion of flavours, obviously created by an expert hand. Next, the sautéed loin of late Scottish lamb, slow-poached shoulder and spinach mousse in crépinette, served with winter root vegetables, pearl barley and lamb jus showcased the finest ingredients, treated with respect and care to result in quality that I have rarely tasted. My dining companion sampled the roast free-range fillet and slowbraised belly pork and smoked paprika, honey mustard and vanilla salt, orangeand- Gewürztraminer-braised chicory, carrots and Dubonnet-spiked juices.

Dessert really was the crowning glory, with quality carried through to the very last; we opted for the fudge and ginger parfait with ginger beer, vanilla, lime and Sailor Jerry sorbet, and the hot banana soufflé with toffee ice cream – exceptional. With amazing food cooked by a truly accomplished chef, served in relaxing surroundings by a dedicated team, The Plumed Horse offers that special experience you’d expect from a restaurant awarded three AA rosettes in 2008 and the title of ‘AA Restaurant of the Year for Scotland’ for 2009-2010.