Stac Polly has enjoyed a stellar reputation ever since it first opened 22 years ago. When I visited the St Mary’s Street restaurant, I was hoping the food would live up to its reputation. Happily, I found the same relaxed bistro ambience, with the Stac Polly touch evident in the tartan and thistle-motif curtains, and artwork including a painting of the eponymous Stac Pollaidh mountain.

Described by executive chef Andre Stanislas as ‘Scottish with a twist’, the menu showed confidence in the freshness and quality of the mainly locally sourced ingredients, with around eight dishes available as starters or mains. My companion opted for chargrilled, slightly smoky chicken skewers with stir-fried pak choi and a mild curry cream to start, while I tucked into a red pepper tower – cold layers of roasted vegetables and creamy, firm mozzarella. The seafood stew main course was a delicious combination of chunks of salmon, scallops and cod in a creamy sauce, while the rich, tender lamb stew with chorizo and butterbeans was perfect comfort food.

In a Scottish-focused restaurant it would have been a sin not to try the Cranachan for dessert, and the chef did this traditional Scottish melding of fresh raspberries, toasted oatmeal, whisky and cream delicious justice – the perfect end to our meal.