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Edinburgh
Restaurant Martin Wishart
Although there were no musical instruments or actors involved, we had enjoyed a performance all the same – something that could be likened to a symphony, where harmonious elements combine to present a stunning piece of work. On this occasion, we had crossed the threshold into the culinary world of a Michelin-starred chef whose creativity, vision and hard work have taken him on a remarkable journey far beyond Scotland’s shores.
Martin Wishart opened his Edinburgh restaurant facing the Water of Leith in 1999. At that point in his burgeoning career, the business was a far simpler affair – a small neighbourhood bistro in comparison to today’s celebrated and dazzling presentation of contemporary French cuisine, admired by a loyal band of customers and rated highly by past mentors Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux. Praise indeed, but everything that goes into making Restaurant Martin Wishart the jewel that it is makes such praise undeniably deserved.
We’d chosen the tasting menu with outstanding wines matched to each course. This turned out to be a foodie’s paradise – a triumph in flavour, texture and presentation on such a scale that it took our breath away and left us wondering, how does he do that? Who else could turn mushroom bouillon into a smooth intro or give foie gras an added dimension with the addition of a marcona almond praline and date and apple mille-feuille? And if you thought the organic smoked salmon might be pretty standard then you haven’t tasted ‘Wishart’s blend’, sourced in Benbecula and served with caramelised cauliflower and smoked konbu vinegar.
The crescendo of the evening came with the presentation of doll-sized funnels of Borders roe deer, asparagus gratin and goat’s cheese gnocchi, before a fabulous selection of hard and soft cheese prepared the route for a finale of Sacher sponge with Valrhona chocolate, salted praline and peanut and milk foam.
Visionary chefs like Martin Wishart will always challenge boundaries and themselves, no matter how successful, which is why more prestigious awards are surely waiting to follow the likes of ‘AA Chefs’ Chef of the Year’ and the Scottish Restaurant Awards’ ‘Fine Dining Experience of the Year’. The restaurant was also voted number eight in the UK by Harden’s and named one of Toptable’s best-rated restaurants by diners.
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