The glowing windows of this marina-side Thai restaurant entice diners into its little rooms. The food here relies on quality components such as the juicy pandanus leaves that wrap coriander-infused chicken, and the sugar cane intriguingly encased by delicately flavoured prawns. Starters also double as original and good-value Thai tapas on Tuesday evenings. Mains are either traditional – spicy papaya and carrot som tum salad – or contemporary – a meaty crispy duck leg with coconut Panang sauce and sweet potato. Reassuring emphasis is placed on provenance – beef is Scotch, mussels are from the West Coast and the menu changes seasonally. For something completely different to finish, there’s a unique pudding of rice flour balls with original recipe pandanus leaf ice cream, or a Thai-twisted cocktail from their fully licensed bar. Charming and prompt service further explains Port of Siam’s growing popularity as somewhere to enjoy a seaside summer evening or escape the winter winds.