Hotel du Vin Bistro attracts drinkers and diners in many ways. Understated elegance is perfectly demonstrated in the decor and atmosphere; the staff are gratifyingly knowledgeable; and every bite of food is gastronomic heaven. But it is, in fact, the unwavering attention to every detail – from the quality of the ingredients to the presentation of the tables – that ensures this bistro stands well above the competition.

We started with the whitebait and the duck-egg mayonnaise, which both arrived charmingly arranged on wooden trays. The generous tangy whitebait were perfectly fried and enhanced by warmed vinegar. The duck egg was soft-boiled to mouthwatering perfection and the homemade mayonnaise was tantalisingly sharp.

For mains we chose the smoked haddock fishcake and the poached salmon with hollandaise. The fishcake, substantial and delicately herbed on a bed of sautéed spinach topped with a gently poached egg, was astonishingly light and flavoursome. The salmon, poached flawlessly, was enhanced by the delicately tart hollandaise sauce. A basket of artisan breads with hand-churned butter made a lovely accompaniment to our feast, as did the staffrecommended Champs du Moulin colombard. We finished by sharing the most refined and scrumptious of creme brulées. For a special occasion – or to turn any occasion into a special one – you can’t beat the Hotel du Vin Bistro.