If there’s a magic formula for getting the balance between great food, relaxed ambience and friendly staff just right, then I’d say James McWilliams has cracked it. With a menu that’s big on full flavours, it’s hardly surprising that diners are drawn back year after year. My dining partner took the plunge with an intro of pan-fried haggis rolled in oatmeal, served with a velvety leek and whisky sauce – a perfect balance of flavours and textures – while I couldn’t resist a selection of smoked meats accompanied by a fresh orange salad and malt whisky dressing. This dish left a clean taste on the palate in preparation for the lemon sole fillets that followed. Lightly poached and nicely presented in a silky veil of subtle Orkney cheese sauce, this main event was seriously good. With food of this calibre, who wouldn’t be impressed?