This is owner Graziano Spano’s third year at the helm of Al Dente, his homely Italian restaurant on Edinburgh’s Easter Road. Al Dente has gathered a loyal clientele since opening, and diners flock to sample the specialities that make this culinary gem unique.

We were impressed by our mouth-watering starters of paccheri al branzino – mini tubes of pasta filled with a purée of sea bass, nestling in a seafood reduction garnished with mussels and king prawns – and the equally notable gnocchi dressed with pecorino cheese, butter and sage. Our mains were a triumph too. The merluzzo al forno, which featured pan-fried cod on a bed of puréed peas, was creatively balanced with an intriguing raisin, spring onion and cucumber sauce. The agnello ai ferri in salsa di rosmarino included succulent lamb, which was grilled and infused with the classic Mediterranean duo of garlic and rosemary. We chose apple pie with fine trails of dark chocolate and strawberries to finish, although the ricotta-stuffed pancakes looked equally delicious.

With the dedication Graziano has invested in Al Dente, it’s easy to understand why the restaurant is still going strong after three years. For all who dine here, one visit leads to many more. I for one am planning a swift return to this charming eatery.