‘Chillies, established 2001’ – emblazed on every plate, the restaurant’s declaration is as proud as it is striking. But why stop at the plate? It’s what they put on it that counts.

The past two years have seen Chillies buck the typical curry-house trends and go for a more ‘au natural’ approach. Those seeking the garish red tikkas should look elsewhere; Chillies now runs on a ‘no artificial colours’ rule, and the result is a more organic, wholesome dish that sits deliciously somewhere between traditional and contemporary. There’s also a welcome absence of grease in their sauces, which are cooked strictly in olive oil.

Comfy and candlelit, Chillies’ contemporary-meets-traditional approach extends from the menu to its ambience. The snug setting is decorated with captivating textured paintings and its small size allows for enough of a buzz while remaining private enough to enjoy the wellchosen menu quietly. That said, the chef-recommended anamika chicken is hardly a dish you’d enjoy quietly – the juicy button mushrooms and complex blend of spices deserve volumes of appreciation.

For a classic take on Indian and Bangladeshi cuisine, Chillies stands proud in a city soaked in successful spice houses. And with a healthy twist making up for all the indulgent pleasure, it’s very difficult to find fault.