The unassuming exterior betrays nothing of the delights that lie inside this intriguing establishment. For a slice of French cuisine and culture, step into a wonderland of brightly coloured pictures, gilded mirrors, tankards, lamps and a chalkboard wall. And the setting is just the beginning.

We began our discovery of Bully’s with a delicious amuse-bouche: a delectable blend of button mushrooms and Dijon mustard. This was closely followed by starters comprising a trio of pan-fried scallops on Jerusalem artichoke purée with a rocket and flat parsley pesto and a pork rillette with toasted croutons, petite salad and a Lilliput caper dressing. Both dishes were beautifully presented, tasting equally as good as they looked.

The main event was seared loin of yellow-fin tuna with braised fennel, confit potatoes and a ‘retro’ Madagascan peppercorn sauce, whilst my companion enjoyed the taste of local rump of Welsh lamb with fondant potato, Koffman cabbage, Solferino vegetables and a rosemary jus gras – nothing short of divine. We ended the evening in true Parisian style with an iced espresso parfait and a lychee and rosewater creme brulée with almond shortbread.

Bullys’ ethos lies not simply with their fine cuisine but also in the importance of efficient and friendly service – something that this intimate French restaurant achieves in perfect balance. For traditional French recipes using quality Welsh produce, Bully’s Restaurant is an absolute must.